March 14, 2010

Chichen Itza, Mexico


Location: Mexico
Original purpose: worship complex
Current purpose: museum, archaeological site
Affiliation: Mayan
Open to public: Yes, $

Chichen Itza is perhaps the most recognized remnant of once glorious Mayan culture. It is definitely very touristic. There are plenty of tours organized from all resorts along Mayan Riviera and Cancun along with cruise ships traversing at Cozumel and
Playa del Carmen. Relative distance from the coast make it an organized tour a more cost-effective way of getting there.

Chichen Itza is actually a complex of a variety of buildings. The true meaning of all buildings have been lost, however it is apparent that the whole complex was used in some sort of sophisticated worship. Ancient Mayan seemed to have been built around the double lunar-solar calendar and highly dependent on astrology. Every building at Chichen Itza reflects that – all of them are oriented according to the movements of celestial bodies. For that matter archaeonomy (combination of archaeology and astronomy) is a very popular area of research at local universities. Local guides with pride will tell you that modern astronomy just recently confirmed calculations maid by Maya thousands of years ago concerning the movements of celestial bodies and the accuracy of their calendar.

El Castillo is the focal point of the complex and the symbol of all things Mayan. It is the temple of Kukulkan, the feathered serpent god, which was apparently specifically designed by Toltecs to assist them in occupying Mayas in the area of Itza. The stepping pyramid contains a lot of mysterious and unusual features. The descending serpent of the spring and autumn equinoxes are a huge crowd draw. At that time, one can observe a shadowy serpent descending the steps of the pyramid. There is also an interesting set of echo features, when you can “hear” the voice of Kukulkan. Recently it was discovered that the square pyramid sits a top a round foundation, which makes it even more mysterious and misunderstood.

Within close proximity there are also the famous ball court, with its own echo features; what is believed to be an observatory with multiple levels of celestial alignments; a likely sacrificial cenote (underground water pond); a temple with a thousand columns, which have a very strange Greek feel to them; and tonnes of more partially uncovered and reconstructed temples and structures. One can spend days wonder the grounds (and trying to avoid plethora of merchants) deciphering this sophisticated culture and belief system.


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February 15, 2010

Xcaret, Mayan Riviera, Mexico

Location: Mexico: Mayan Riviera (Quintana Roo)
Original/Current purpose: theme park, archaeological site
Affiliation: Mayan, Mexican
Open to public: Yes, $$

Xcaret was designed like some sort of Mexican Disneyworld with certain cultural and ecological undertones. It has a very rich collection of local animals like dolphins, tapirs, butterflies, jaguars and even bats. It is designed to provide unique experiences like floating in the underground river or swimming with manatees. At night it hosts a number of fascinating shows. But the most fascinating to us is the number of spiritual showcases re-created or restored right there in the park. First, there are the original ruins from the ancient town of Pole. Then, there is a replica of the Mayan village complete with a Temascal. Then, there is a replica of the Mayan ballgame arena with interpretations of all the major Mayan sites. Then there is a traditional Mexican cemetery. And on top of that all, at least two beautiful chapels.

Unfortunately, the original ruins while preserved are not very well explained and simply pop-up at unsuspecting tourist all over the park. Some of them are very reminiscent of the more famous Chichen Itza, but obviously, none of the same scale.

Temascal, as the part of the Mayan village deserves a special mention. Not only that it is built very well, it is also fully functional. The organized rituals of clarification are performed on a daily basis, where visitors are welcome to become a participant for a mere $45. Mayan traditional shamans play a role of a guide complete with ancient tales and moral teachings. Our guide, Miguel, seemed especially knowledgeable and involved. Volcanic rocks used as the heating unit supposedly release the earth’s core information with the steam, which is absorbed by the bodies. Definitely recommended for any seeker of spiritual experiences.
Temascal.

Worship of the spirits of the ancestors and dead in general plays an important role in spiritual life of Mexico. The replica of the cemetery is very elaborate not only in shape, but also in colours and design of the graves. On the sides and underneath of what essentially is a hill, there is a couple of small chapels dedicated to a particular family or to the spirits of the dead. Burning candles adorn these grottos. The lack of visitors and black granite could be a little spooky, but it does give you a certain sense of presence.
The view of the cemetery.
The grottos.


There are at least two major chapels on the site. The one on the top of the hill is of more traditional tropical design, complete with thatched roof, lack of walls and white-washed bell tower. The other, on the main square, is dedicated to the underground rivers, that are the main source of fresh water in Yucatan. For that matter, the altar of the chapel is partially submerged in the river with stylized tree root system rising from it.

While Xcaret has been criticized for its commercialization and disregard for native nature, in our view, they struck a very healthy balance between preservation and popularization of many facets of modern and ancient Mexico and Yucatan.


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December 18, 2009

Delphi, Greece

Location: Greece: Delphi
Original purpose: Oracle
Affiliation: Ancient Greek
Current purpose: Museum, archaeological site
Open to public: Yes, $

Within a couple of hour of driving on the slope of a mountain lies what used to be one of the most sacred places in Ancient Greece – the Delphi. It used to be a spiritual centre and a residence of an oracle (a young girl who would predict future through spirit-inflicted trance). According to the legend, the site was originally selected by Zeus, who simultaneously released two eagle from two ends of the earth, and they met right at that spot. Hence the spot was proclaimed to be the navel of the earth.

Obviously the predictions of the oracle were most times vague and open for the interpretation. Nonetheless the popularity of Delphi was enormous, resulting in a magnificent spiritual complex being built on the spot. Some of the most notable structures there were the temple of Apollo, the “navel” itself (there is no consensus on what it was actually supposed to be), the site of Pythian Games (athletic complex) and treasuries of various ancient Greek city-states (where citizens of those states would deposit offerings to Apollo).

There are only three messages remain that are clearly legible on the walls of the temple:


  • Know thyself

  • Nothing in excess

  • Make a pledge and mischief is nigh

The museum built right next to the site has a very rich collection of the artefacts recovered from the site. The site itself is only partially open to tour groups, with some areas still under exploration. The best way to reach Delphi is from Athens with an organized tour group.


Reproduction of what Delphi might have looked like in its glory days.


The original "Navel"


Another, more decorated "Navel"


Ruins of the "sports complex"


The wall of the Temple of Apollo with precisely fit uneven stones


More on Wikipedia


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